Guitarist
Composer/performer
Music/instrumental tutor
March 2025
This years Festival de Jerez was an experience which led me to a different place in flamenco terms.
In Seville, the most common venue for flamenco shows is the tablao. Wandering those narrow streets you will likely come across so many of them that it's difficult to choose which one to go to each night. Often the performers are doing three shows a night, and there is an element that is—understandably—designed for the curious tourist more than anything.
That's not to take anything away from these performances. They are more playful, but you will still witness powerful moments of profound expression, and the spontaneous beauty which is all over flamenco, not to mention highly skilled performers. But I have seen a couple of bored guitarists at tablaos, and a few with a tendency to over-play.
In Jerez de la Frontera, the principal flamenco venue is a tabanco (a portmanteau of estanco and tabac), and there are also peñas. But a crucial difference in Jerez is that the city wears its flamenco heritage with a unilateral pride. Some performers go about their business during the day in full flamenco regalia, and in the town centre I saw adverts offering state-funded, 900-hour flamenco dance courses for anyone registered unemployed in Andalucía, cost free as long as attendance is above 75%. On a tour of the Alvaro Domecq bodega, our kind host Cristina informed us that three things matter in Jerez: sherry, horses, and flamenco.
After a week in Jerez, with some memorable performances, including a free show at the Peña and Centro Cultural Luís de la Pica, I returned to Seville for the last part of my trip, staying in Triana, the barrio which is most cited in flamenco origin stories. But the tablao show I saw in Triana was disappointing; the most memorable things were fake smiles and brutal use of castanets. The following evening I picked a tablao I knew from last year, and there were some lovely moments, but something still seemed lacking. After some discussion with locals I found the Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena.
(This is part of a growing blog-style essay. I will update the story every week.)
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